The journey begins with a fork  ...

 

• Home • Up • Order Books • Articles • Recipe • About the Author • Favorites • Newsletter •
 

July 2008...

 



Chef Gwen
Powderhorn Ranch
Gourmet Week


 

Chef Gwen's Blog

 

 

 

 


In Association with Amazon.com

 


 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Past Cooking Tips


     
The Perfect Burger Blackening Spice Toasting Coconut
Perfect Pancakes Pear Mania Roasting Hazelnuts
Turkey Day Tips Best Brownies in the Land Carving Watermelon
2 Things about Pineapple Oil & Vinegar Combinations Fruit & Herb Flavor Combinations
Tomatillos Chocolate definitions The Art of Cooking Shrimp
Muffin Talk Cleaning Mushrooms Damiana Liqueur
Grilling Fruit Moroccan Spice Blend Quinoa, an ancient grain
Storing & Cleaning Mushrooms Grapefruit Vinaigrette Homemade Dippers
Zucchini A-Plenty Roasting Peppers Fruits for Grilling
Ice Cream Tips Cooking with Beer Cilantro Herb
Phyllo Dough About the Mai Tai Choosing Green Beans
Whole Wheat Substitution Turkey Leftovers Pasta Tips
Melting Chocolate Fish Tricks Cotija, A Mexican Cheese
Polenta Kitchen Resolutions Plum Crazy
Balsamic Vinegar Cooking Fish Choosing Watermelons
Demi-Glace Hulling Strawberries Blanching
Compound Butters White Chocolate Glaze The Classic Vinaigrette
Apples Pumpkin Pie Topping Decorating with Winter Squashes
Lettuce Cookbook Preservation Avocados
Plate Decorating Toasting Nuts Healthful Eating Tips
Turkey Tips Spice Grinders Maple Syrup
Smoothies Eggless Wash Separating Eggs
Choosing Winter Squashes Preventing Discoloration of Fruit Roasting Peppers
Potato Skins Cranberries All Year Sweet Potatoes vs. Yams
Mango Primer Types of Tuna Basic Green Salsa
Non-Stick Grilling    

 

 

 

The Perfect Burger

 

      

    It's all about the meat. Most burgers are made with ground chuck, but ground sirloin is tasty, too, if it has enough fat. You need at least 15% to 20% fat or you'll end up with a dry burger. Of course, the more fat, the more the burger will shrink on the grill, so make your patties about 25% bigger than your bun size. 

 

    The other key to the perfect burger is not overcooking it. The tastiest burgers are cooked to medium (still slightly pink inside). But with all the beef recalls (21 in 2007, according to the New York Times) and scary stories about E. coli, it makes you think twice about not cooking the meat to well done.

 

    You could do what my sister-in-law does. She picks out a sirloin roast from the meat counter and asks her butcher to grind it for her. A combination of sirloin and chuck, both freshly ground by your butcher is, in my opinion, the best of both worlds. You get the nice fat taste from the chuck, and the beefy taste of the sirloin -- and the comfort of knowing the beef won't be recalled.

 

I normally grill everything over high heat, but with burgers, I tone the fire down a bit. You're not looking for a nice charred exterior, so medium heat is best for retaining the juiciness of burgers.  What to do about your red meat eschewing friends?  Try a turkey burger. You'll find a great recipe for juicy turkey burgers in my newsletter archives.

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

Blackening Spice

 

       Paul Prudhomme, possibly the first "celebrity chef," created the famous Blackened Redfish dish, launching the blackening craze in the early 1980's. Instead of resting on his laurels, he now oversees an international spice company, Chef Paul Prudhomme's MAGIC Seasoning Blends®. His K-Paul's restaurant in the heart of the French Quarter still attracts locals and tourists (read long lines during peak hours).

 

    Here is my blackening spice mixture. It has a slight nod to the southwest, with the addition of chile powder and Mexican oregano. To make it even more spicy, cut the paprika back to either 1 or 2 tablespoons.

 

The key to blackening anything is to use a well seasoned cast iron pan and clarified butter. And of course, the blackening spice.

 

 

Chef Gwen's Blackening Spice:

3 tablespoons sweet paprika

1 tablespoon pure mild chile powder

1 tablespoon ground Mexican oregano

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt

 

Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

Toasting Coconut

 

       To toast coconut, heat the oven to 350º F. Spread the coconut in a single layer on a lined baking sheet and place in the oven.  Set the timer for 5 minutes.  After 5 minutes, remove coconut and fluff with a fork.  Return to oven and continue to bake until coconut is toasted, stirring every few minutes.  It will start to toast quickly toward the end, and it toasts unevenly, making the stirring important. 

 

    Don’t do anything else but watch the coconut during the last few minutes of toasting.  It will look like coconut confetti, with some pieces really dark, some medium dark and some still light. Toasted coconut will keep several weeks, sealed in an airtight container at room temperature.

 

 

(return to top)

 

 

Perfect Pancakes

 

    I just tasted, perhaps, the worst pancakes ever made on this earth. I had to cut them with a knife. Seriously. Not only were they rawhide tough, they had absolutely zero flavor.

 

    I wanted to cry... or at least scream loud enough for the cook in the kitchen to hear me, because making a tender, flavorful pancake is easier than pie (which, frankly is a lot more difficult than flipping out a tasty pancake).

 

    I've made hundreds of pancakes throughout my cooking career. While it is easy to whip up a batch from scratch, there is nothing wrong with using a mix. The mix doesn't make the pancakes tough, the cook does. To avoid passing out steak knives with your pancakes, follow one basic rule.

 

    Mix JUST until moistened...

 

    Pancake batters, like quick breads, turn rock hard when over mixed. It's easy to over mix a pancake or quick bread batter if you aren't organized to begin with. So start with these guidelines:

  • Whisk together all the "dry" ingredients (like flour, baking soda/powder, salt, dry spices, etc.) in one large bowl.

  • Whisk together all the "wet" ingredients (like milk/buttermilk, eggs, vanilla, extracts, melted butter, etc.) in another, smaller bowl.

  • Pour the "wet" ingredients over the "dry" ingredients and stir, or whisk just until most of the dry ingredients are no longer dry, but there are still lots of visible, small lumps. This should not take more than 10-15 seconds. More stirring equals tough pancakes.

    If I sound a little melodramatic, then I apologize. And I promise never, ever to take you to a certain breakfast place, in a certain town somewhere in the Southwest, where the pancakes are as tough as the neighboring cowboys.

 

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

 

Pear Mania

 

How many pear varieties are you aware of? According to David Joachim, author of Brilliant Food Tips and Cooking Tricks, there are more than 5,000 varieties. I can think of only a handful. Did you see the movie City of Angels, with Meg Ryan and Nicolas Cage? In one scene, Nicolas asks Meg what a pear tastes like. She says "Sweet, juicy, like sugary sand." Doesn't that just make you want to eat a pear?

 

The widely available Bartlett is perfect for eating out of hand. When ripe, it's juicy and sweet. I don't think it holds up as well when cooked as the Anjou (also called D'Anjou), which is also good for eating raw. Bosc, tall and slender, is the prettiest pear for poaching whole. While it can be eaten raw, it stays quite firm even when ripe, and is more tart than the Bartlett and Anjou. 

 

The Comice pear is purportedly the sweetest and juiciest pear. It's large, plump body and lovely green skin with red blushes makes it a favorite pear for stuffing into holiday gift baskets, earning it "The Christmas Pear" title. I'm a sucker for the Seckel pear, a tiny little orb compared to the other varieties. I think it's too firm to eat raw, but I love the spicy sweet flavor, and use it in crisps and tarts.

 

The Asian pear is round like an apple, and golden like the Bosc. It's crunchy and sweet-tart. Thinly sliced, it's great in salads, especially if the salad is sprinkled with blue cheese. I've brushed rings of Asian pears with a mixture of melted butter, honey and Chinese Five-Spice powder and grilled them. Served with a scoop of Ginger Caramel ice cream (a recipe in The Great Ranch Cookbook), it makes a lovely dessert after an Asian-themed dinner.

 

Pears are available year-round, but the "season" is late summer through winter. Fall is peak season, when you're likely to find more varieties at the market than just the standard Bartlett. Many of our pears come from the northwest, specifically Oregon and Washington. Pears are picked before ripening, and either ripen in transit, or after you take them home. A pear is ripe when it gives a little when pressed near the stem, and the flesh is fragrant with pear aroma. After ripening, use right away, or place in the refrigerator for a few days.

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

Roasting Hazelnuts

 

  After reading this, you may ask yourself, why? Why would I go through the hassle of roasting hazelnuts when I can buy them already roasted? It's a good question. Price is one reason, as roasted hazelnuts are almost twice the price of raw nuts, and these aren't cheap nuts to begin with. Freshness is another good reason to roast your own. Who knows when that bag of roasted nuts was in the oven. You can taste the difference between fresh roasted and bagged roasted nuts.

    To roast hazelnuts, you'll need about an hour. The roasting part is only 18 to 20 minutes. "Skinning" the nuts takes about the same amount of time as it does to roast them. And it's messy. I actually do the skinning outside, creating lots of papery flutters for passing birds.

    Heat the oven to 350 degrees and spread about a pound of raw hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Roast the nuts until the skins turn dark brown, and start to crack. The aroma of toasted nuts will fill the air when you open the oven and they are done. It could take 15 to 20 minutes. Check carefully, as they can burn quickly once they begin to turn dark.

    Remove from the oven and let cool completely. You'll hear lots of crackling. Once cool, wrap a handful of roasted nuts in a clean kitchen towel and rub vigorously. Most, but not all of the skins will rub off. The skins will float and fly everywhere, so do this over a large roasting pan or over a bowl, or as I do, outside on the counter of my built in barbecue grill.

    There are lots of uses for roasted hazelnuts, including this month's newsletter recipe from The Cool Mountain Cookbook, Hazelnut Spaghetti Squash.

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

Turkey Day Tips

  

    Everyone by now has heard or read about the Butterball turkey hotline, a toll free number staffed by Butterball turkey experts, just waiting for the next ridiculous call. Since the early '80's Butterball has staffed their hotline with live people and those folks have dispensed countless hours of advice. And not all questions are ridiculous.

 

    In fact, the questions over the years have helped shape Butterballs' message to home cooks. The number is 1-800-BUTTERBALL -- you'll recognize that there are too many numbers for a 10 digit phone number, but no matter. Just start dialing and it will connect before you get to the last 3 digits (The number is 1-800-288-8372.)

 

    Butterball is part of the National Turkey Federation, along with the other big poultry producers, Foster Farms and Jennie-O, and others. The federation has its own website, which is much deeper than the Butterball site, just because it is more or less a compilation of all the members' sites information. That's not to discredit the Butterball site. It's pretty incredible, and perfect for any questions regarding buying, storing, and cooking turkeys.

 

    As you prepare for Thanksgiving (as well as the December holidays), spend some time at www.eatturkey.com. You'll find a wealth of information from how much turkey to buy for your crowd to some pretty unique recipes, especially for leftovers (Grilled Turkey, Apple and Cheese Sandwiches, for example) as well as very traditional recipes for bread stuffing or cornbread dressing. Happy Thanksgiving.

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

 

Fairytale Brownies

 

If you want to make an impression this holiday season, order a dozen brownies from Fairytale Brownies based in Arizona. (Full disclosure... I know one of the owners, Eileen Spitalny, pictured above in front of a display at the Fairytale Brownie factory).

 

I send them to my family, to my friends, and my husband sends these all butter, pure Belgian chocolate morsels to his favorite clients. These brownies are not for those watching their calorie and fat intake. One brownie has, well, I'd rather not say how much. Besides, it's really OK to indulge in the best things in life once in a while, and these brownies are simply the best you can buy.

 

Check out their website, www.brownies.com. All the flavors are wonderful, but the caramel and the pecan brownies are my favorite.  Go ahead and indulge.

(return to top)

 

 

 

Carving a Watermelon Basket

 

If you want to make this basket to use as a fruit bowl, or even to serve the Watermelon Gazpacho, here's how to do it. To get enough watermelon flesh for this month's recipe, watermelon gazpacho, you'll need the larger oblong variety. The cute, round, seedless mini melons won't provide enough flesh. Besides, I don't think the seedless varieties taste as good as the traditional ones, and I've never had one that was completely free of seeds anyway.

Place the watermelon on a clean kitchen towel. If you want, draw a line around the center lengthwise as a guide. Using a utility knife (with a blade at least 6 inches long and 1 to 2 inches wide), and starting in the center of the watermelon, push the knife in at least 3 inches deep at an angle to the line you've draw. Remove the knife and place the tip of the knife at the bottom of the first cut, with the blade facing away from you, like you are cutting the right side of a "V". 

 

Continue cutting "V"'s all around the center of the watermelon until the entire line around the length of the watermelon is covered in "V"'s. You should now be able to pry apart the 2 halves. You may have to use your knife to wedge it open, but you should be able to pull it apart with just a little elbow grease. Cut out chunks of the watermelon and as you get near the rind, you can use a spoon or a melon baller to scrape out the remaining flesh.

 

If the watermelon bowl is wobbly, slice off a piece on the bottom, so that it sits upright without moving.

(return to top)

 

 

2 Things You Might Not Know About Pineapple

 

    David Joachim's Brilliant Food Tips book is full of fascinating tips and tricks. Under the Pineapple entry, David talks about how to buy, store and cut pineapple. He also includes a yummy sounding pineapple and macadamia nut upside-down cake. I found these two things also under the pineapple heading:

 

  • Use pineapple as a meat tenderizer. The bromelain in pineapple helps tenderize meats because it breaks down protein. When making a marinade for tough cuts of meat such as flank steak, add pineapple juice.

  • Optimize your vitamin C intake. Look for the "gold" variety of pineapple. Loaded with 4 times the vitamin C of regular pineapple, this variety is exceptionally sweet, with golden-colored flesh.

I've always bought the gold variety because it's juicier and not quite as acidic.

(return to top)

 

 

Oil & Vinegar

    Once you get the basic proportions of oil and vinegar down, there isn't a vinaigrette you can't make. The classic French vinaigrette is 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar. I like my vinaigrettes with a little more bite, so I use 2 parts oil to 1 part vinegar. I tame the bite with the addition of other flavors.

 

    I almost always include garlic (for flavor) and Dijon mustard (for flavor and to help thicken the vinaigrette) and a sweetener, like sugar, honey or maple syrup (to take the edge off the vinegar).

 

    I always use a blender, first blending all the ingredients but the oil, and then slowly adding the oil while the motor is running. The blender helps keep the vinaigrette from separating.

 

    Here's a little chart to help you create your own special vinaigrette. Choose an oil, a vinegar (or citrus juice) and then any number of the flavors.

 

    To make 3/4 cup (enough to dress a salad for 6, or enough to marinate meat and dress a salad for 2), start with 1/4 cup of vinegar and 1/2 cup of oil. For the flavors, think in terms of less is more. You can always add more.

 

    I typically use a teaspoon of garlic, 1 to 2 to 3 teaspoons of mustard, a pinch of salt and pepper, and a tablespoon of a sweetener. For optional flavors, it depends. I might use a tablespoon of fresh herbs, a 1/4 or more of fruit, and teaspoons or a tablespoon of other flavors.

 

    Trust your tongue. Taste and adjust.

 

Oil

Vinegar

"Must" Flavors

Optional Flavors

Extra Virgin Olive

Balsamic

Minced Garlic

Fresh herbs

Vegetable

Red Wine

Dijon mustard

Dried or fresh fruit

Peanut

Champagne/White Wine

Kosher salt

Spices

Walnut

Port

Pepper

Onions/Shallots

Hazelnut

Sherry

Sweetener

Nuts/Seeds

Almond

Rice Wine

 

Cheese

Grape seed

Fruit Flavored

 

Fresh grated ginger

 

Citrus juice

 

Soy sauce

 

    Play around with making your own vinaigrettes, and remember, they aren't just for salads. You can use your vinaigrette as a marinade and a sauce, too.

 

Here's a recipe for the vinaigrette I used with this month's chipotle glazed salmon:

 

Spicy Vinaigrette

 

Makes 3/4 cup

 

1/4 cup champagne vinegar

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons Sriracha hot sauce

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 cup peanut oil

 

1. Blend first six ingredients (vinegar through garlic) in a blender until smooth.

2. With motor running, slowly drizzle in oil. Taste and adjust seasonings to your liking.

 

(return to top)

 

Fruit and Herb Flavor Combinations

 

 

    I first tasted a fruit and herb flavor combination in 1998, when pastry chef Stacy McDevitt paired orange and basil in a dessert at Restaurant Hapa in Scottsdale. The talented McDevitts, unfortunately, have long left Arizona, but the memory of that flavor combination has stayed with me. Soon after and to this day, I still see fruit and herb combinations on menus all over the country. 

 

    Here are a few of my favorite herb and flavor combinations. You could experiment with your favorite recipes that use these fruits, adding some herbs for a subtle but intriguing punch. The easiest way is just to add some herbs to your batter or if you have a liquid, steep the herbs in the liquid first.

  • Lemon & Thyme

  • Pear & Rosemary

  • Orange & Tarragon

  • Watermelon & Mint

  • Blueberry & Hibiscus (dried)

  • Cherry & Sage

  • Plum & Lavender

Looking for even more combinations?  I would suggest Jerry Traunfeld's two books, The Herbfarm Cookbook and The Herbal Kitchen. Both books have charts with all kinds of herbs and what to pair with them. 

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

Tomatillos

 

    Tomatillos are sometimes called Mexican green tomatoes, even though they aren't really tomatoes at all. They are in the same nightshade family as tomatoes, and gooseberries for that matter, hence the papery covering that must be removed before using. They're sticky, too, after removing the paper husk, but the sticky stuff washes off with cold water.

 

    Many Mexican, Latin, and Southwestern dishes use tomatillos. They can be eaten raw or cooked. Available most of the year in the Southwest and sporadically around the rest of the country. Look in Latin markets if your store doesn't normally stock them.

 

    Salsa Verde (green salsa) often contains tomatillos. Eaten raw, they taste tart and tangy, with a hint of apple and citrus. Cooking tomatillos mellows the tang slightly. You can boil, steam or grill tomatillos.

 

    When buying tomatillos, look for bright green, smooth skins. I peel back the paper husk to check for firmness and color. Store them in the refrigerator in their husks until ready to use. They should keep several days. Remove the husks and wash thoroughly. Now you're ready to chop them raw for a salsa, or cook them whole, as I write about in this month's recipe, Roasted Tomatillo and Jalapeno Sauce.

 

    The recipe comes from Par Fork! and is served on a breakfast egg dish of Huevos Rancheros from a resort in Tucson, but I am using the sauce for my stacked chicken enchiladas. 

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

Chocolate Definitions

 

    All true chocolate contains chocolate liquor, a blend of chocolate solids and cocoa butter.  That is why white chocolate really isn't chocolate at all, as it contains no chocolate solids, just cocoa butter, milk, vanilla, and sugar. If it doesn't contain cocoa butter, it isn't even white chocolate, just a white candy.

    Cacao beans are picked, dried, roasted, and conched (crushed). The mixture is pressed or spun, separating the cocoa solids and the cocoa butter.  The two are blended back together to produce chocolate.

    There are no regulations regarding chocolate labeling, which is why it is confusing, sometimes, to understand the difference between chocolate labeled "Semi-Sweet" and "Bittersweet". Unsweetened chocolate is straight forward, as is milk chocolate, although these days, the high-end chocolatiers are starting to add more chocolate and less milk to their artisan chocolates.

    In general, the higher the cocoa solids percentage, the deeper, richer the chocolate flavor.  Bittersweet should be more chocolaty than semi-sweet, with less sugar, but that isn't always the case, and both can be used interchangeably in recipes.

    Some of the highest quality chocolates include Callebaut, Valrhona, Guittard, and Scharffen Berger.  

 

(return to top)

 

The Art of Cooking Shrimp

   

    Lee, my husband's best friend from college, stood over my shoulder and announced, "Don't overcook the shrimp or they'll be rubbery. You don't want rubbery shrimp, do you?" Lee's father owned a seafood packing plant on the coast of Georgia, where occasionally he and Jeff  worked during school breaks (for beer money, I'm guessing). It turned out to be the best advice I ever received about cooking shrimp, although it certainly didn't feel like it at the time.

  

    It is just too easy to overcook shrimp because it seems like it should take longer than a few minutes. But it doesn't, no matter how you cook it: poaching, sautéing, or grilling. Here are a few tips I've learned over the years about shrimp cookery.

  • Shrimp sizing is confusing because there are no standards in labeling, so look for a count. David Joachim's book, Brilliant Food Tips gives these guidelines:  Small (40-50 count per pound; Medium (31-40 count); Large (26-30 count); Extra large (21-25 count); Jumbo (16-20 count). U-15 is a common jumbo shrimp label and means there are 15 shrimp in a pound.

  • Buy frozen shrimp. Most shrimp is frozen as soon as it is caught, and it takes very little time to thaw. Costco has incredibly great frozen shrimp, with the shell on, but split for easy peeling.

  • Cooking shrimp with the shell on will help keep the shrimp moist and juicy, even if it is a pain to have to shell it before serving. David Joachim says that while the flavor is best when cooked with the shell, the difference is too negligible to notice, so go ahead and peel before cooking. I say it depends upon how you're cooking the shrimp. I tend to leave it on and go though the pain of peeling after cooking.

  •  Marinate shrimp for 30 minutes or less, unless you want ceviche. The acid (either citrus juice or vinegar) in marinades begins to "cook" the shrimp immediately.

  • Boiling shrimp actually makes it tougher. Instead, poach it (it's the same thing, only the water temperature is lower than 212 degree boiling temperature.) Poaching temperature is about 170 degrees and is much gentler on the shrimp. Steam rises off the surface, but you won't see any simmering bubbles.

  • Shrimp is done when the flesh turns from translucent to opaque, and not a second later. Depending upon the size of the shrimp, it could take 30 seconds, a minute, 2 minutes, or up to 3-1/2 to 4 minutes for those jumbo U-15 shrimp.

(return to top)

 

 

Muffin Talk

 

     My good friend Letty Flatt, Executive Pastry Chef at Deer Valley Resort, has an adorable husband. His name is Robbie, and he knows when it's time to leave us girls alone. He says, "Oh, it's muffin-talk," and he politely excuses himself from the conversation.

   We don't always talk shop, but invariably our discussions will include some type of food. It's what we do. It reminds me of the fact that I don't bake. When I get in a pickle about baking, I call Letty, or our mutual friend Susan Prieskorn, my baking instructor from culinary school. They think I should just avoid baking altogether.

    After baking more than 30 different muffin, quick bread, and scone recipes for my three cookbooks, I have learned a couple things about baking that I'd like to share with you. If you're an experienced baker, don't laugh at these tips, but if you are like me, better with a saucepan than a muffin tin, read on. I hope that there is something here that helps you.

  • Read the recipe all the way through (this goes for any recipe, but especially baking recipes).

  • Measure out all the ingredients before you start (or while the oven is preheating).

  • Use liquid measures for liquids (cups with spouts) and dry measures for dry ingredients (so that you can level them off.) Sounds silly, but bakers are picky about this and it can make or break your muffins.

  • Preheat that oven at least 15 minutes before you plan to stick a pan in it, and if you haven't calibrated your oven in a while, invest in an oven thermometer. You need to know what temperature you think your oven is at.

  • The professionals have a term for mixing quick-breads and muffins, called, ta da! The Muffin Method! It means whisking dry ingredients together in one bowl, wet ingredients in another bowl, and then pouring the wet over the dry and mixing just until almost, but not quite combined. Lumps are OK! If you are stirring in nuts or dried fruit or chocolate chips, you'll do that after you've stirred a couple of times, but before you get to the almost combined state. Lots of mixing means tough muffins because you've agitated the gluten proteins in the flour. Try not to do that.

  • Most quick bread recipes convert to muffin recipes. Just scoop the batter into prepared muffin tins, and bake for 15 to 25 minutes (use the toothpick test below).

  • You can spray muffin tins with non-stick spray (I like the kind with flour, like Joy of Baking, although PAM also has a similar product) or you can use paper muffin wrappers.

  • Fill muffin tins about 3/4 full. I use an ice-cream scoop so that each muffin is equal in size, and it helps create that cool rounded dome shape when they're baked.

  • Regular muffin recipes convert to mini-muffin recipes with just one adjustment -- the time it takes to bake them. If a regular muffin takes 20 to 25 minutes to bake, a mini-muffin will only take 12 to 15 minutes. For every regular muffin your recipe makes, you should get 3 mini-muffins out of it.

  • Always test your muffins about 5 to 10 minutes before the recipe says they are done. Stick a toothpick in the center of a muffin. If it comes out clean, it's actually overdone. If a few moist crumbs are attached, it's perfect!

  • Cool the muffins in the tin for 5 minutes, then dump out on a cooling rack to completely cool.

  • I think they taste best the morning they are made, but you can successfully reheat them the next morning. (You can mix the wet ingredients together and refrigerate overnight, and whisk the dry ingredients together and leave on the counter. It makes for quick muffins in the morning, plus, you can have a glass of wine while your assembling the ingredients. Wine is not as tasty at 7 in the morning.)

  • Wrap muffins in foil (unless they have a streusel topping, then just leave unwrapped), and reheat in a 300 degree oven until warm -- about 5 minutes for mini-muffins, and 8 to 10 minutes for regular muffins.

  • If all else fails, locate your favorite local bakery and indulge, without any mess, any stress, on someone else's muffins.

(return to top)

 

 

 

Cleaning Mushrooms

 

 Shiitake  Fresh mushrooms are like sponges, so I never wash them under water.  I take a damp paper towel and wipe them off. If they are especially dirty, it might take a couple of paper towels to get them clean.

 White button mushrooms, and their Italian counterpart, the brown crimini, just need a gentle wipe with the damp towel and they are ready to slice or cook whole. The stem is completely edible, although you may trim it or remove it if you like.

 With portabellas, in addition to removing the stem, I scrape the dark brown gills out with a spoon. Their gills are especially large, so if dirt is going to get trapped, it will be in the gills. I also remove them because they can turn a white, creamy sauce, like the one in this month's recipe, a dingy brown.

    For Shiitake mushrooms (my very favorite because of the earthy flavor and meaty texture), after wiping clean, cut the stem out as it is too woody to eat.

 

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

Damiana Liqueur

 

    I couldn't put my finger on it, but there was something different about the margaritas in Cabo. They were refreshing, with an almost mint-like after taste. I finally asked the server, who kept my pool-side afternoons delightful by bringing another margarita as soon as I finished one, (hey, they were small!) what was so special about these luscious lime libations.

 

    She told me that the secret ingredient was Damiana liqueur, made from an herb indigenous to the Baja. I found a bottle in a store near our resort. It was in the shape of a pregnant woman (the Incan Goddess of Fertility) because Baja natives believe Damiana is a natural aphrodisiac. A couple margaritas made with Damiana is most definitely an aphrodisiac. I packed a small bottle in my suitcase, just in case I couldn't find it back in the States.

 

   Besides enhancing margaritas, Damiana can be used as any other liqueur. Put it in desert sauces, like caramel sauce or mango sauce, or drizzle it over ice cream. I've even put it in French Toast batter.

 

    I highly recommend going to Cabo to purchase your own bottle, but if that isn't in your travel plans, look for it at large liquor stores. I've found it at A. J.'s Fine Foods here in the valley. If your store doesn't carry it, ask if they can order it for you.  Here's a website where I also found it. Internetwines.com

 

(return to top)

 

Grilling Fruit

 

    Most fruits can be grilled, although I've not tried grapes or cherries. I have successfully grilled apples, pears, peaches, bananas, and all kinds of citrus. Strawberries are not the best fruit for grilling (they turn mushy). And even though I've tried it, I don't think melons make good grilling fodder.

 

    What makes a good fruit candidate for the grill?  A firm fruit first of all. Second, a fruit with low moisture, like apples and pears. Those with lots of water, like melons and berries don't hold up to the high heat of the grill. I prefer to grill fruits that are almost at their peak ripeness. If they're too ripe, they have that moisture problem, and tend to fall apart from the high heat.

 

    Another tip for fruit grilling is to marinate the fruit in some type of sugar syrup (can be honey or brown or white sugar dissolved in fruit juice or water). To the sugar syrup you can add all kinds of flavorings, like the ginger and soy for the pineapple recipe this month. 

 

    Herbs are good additions, especially mint. I've also grilled peaches with mesquite honey and sage. Basil makes a nice addition to grilled oranges. Leave the peel on the citrus, and cut into 1/2-inch rounds.

 

    A splash of a liqueur is also a great flavor booster -- just don't add to much or you'll create a flare up on the grill, igniting the alcohol. A tablespoon of rum or liqueur per cup of sugar syrup is plenty.

 

    Grilling fruit doesn't take much time (usually less than 5 to 10 minutes) so the additional sugar helps caramelize the fruit, and the short grilling time means the fruit won't burn.

 

    Next time you fire up the grill for your hamburgers or steaks, try grilling some fruit. Experiment and have fun!

 

Sugar syrup:

1 cup brown or white sugar

1 cup water

Flavorings of your choice (herbs/spices/ginger/liqueur or rum, etc.)

 

(return to top)

 

 

Moroccan Spice Blend 

 

    I have lots of little baggies in my refrigerator, with various spice mixtures I've concocted. I write the name and the date on the bag, but most get used before their time is up. They will last about a year in the refrigerator.

   

    When I need something quick to sprinkle on my chicken or pork or shrimp for dinner, I just rummage through the baggies until something grabs me. I turn to this mixture quite often.

   

    It's spicy and slightly sweet, thanks to the brown sugar, which I add to all of my spice mixtures. I like the hint of sweetness, and the sugar helps the crust caramelize when cooking. The addition of cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg add an exotic twist.

   

    This Moroccan mixture is especially good on strong flavored proteins, like salmon, tuna and of course, a Moroccan staple, lamb.

 

Moroccan Spice Blend

Makes 1/3 cup

  • 1 tablespoon paprika

  • 1 tablespoon brown sugar

  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin

  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger

  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

  • 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika or cayenne

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

  • 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

  • 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl. Transfer to a sealable bag and label with the name and date (list ingredients if you want to remember them.) Keeps for about a year in the refrigerator.

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

Quinoa -- An Ancient Grain?

 

Tip courtesy of David Joachim's Brilliant Food Tips and Cooking Tricks (Rodale, Inc., 2001)  

 

    According to David Joachim, quinoa is "actually the fruit of an herb. It resembles tiny, ivory-colored beads. Pronounced 'KEEN-wah,' this ideal staple food is hardy enough to grow in rocky mountain soil, produces its own natural insect repellent, cooks up twice as fast as rice, is high in protein, and has a wonderfully nutty taste."

   

    Even if it is not technically a grain, it is ancient. It was a staple of the ancient Incas of South America, and continues to be an important food through South American. High in protein might be an understatement, as it contains eight essential amino acids, and a 1/2-cup serving provides 10 grams of protein. 

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

 

Storing & Cleaning Mushrooms

 

Tip courtesy of David Joachim's Brilliant Food Tips and Cooking Tricks (Rodale, Inc., 2001)   

    Keep mushrooms cool and dry. Refrigerate them in a basket or an open paper bag and avoid cleaning them until you're ready to use them. They should stay fresh for 4 to 5 days.

 

    Trim the stems but avoid washing the mushrooms because they absorb water like a sponge. Instead, wipe them clean with a damp cloth or scrape them gently with a paring knife. If bits of dirt cling stubbornly to the mushrooms, go ahead and rinse them off, but cook them soon after washing, as the water promotes decay.

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

Grapefruit Bounty

 

    Grapefruit is available year round, thanks to staggered growing seasons among the handful of states that produce it: California, Arizona, Texas, and Florida. Peak season is October through March. I've always thought that the pink and red varieties were sweeter than the pale-fleshed ones, but apparently it isn't true. Ripeness is one of the factors that effect the sweetness. I still prefer the red varieties because of their striking color.

 

    Chock-full of vitamin C, fiber, and among the red varieties, lycopene, an antioxidant also found in tomatoes, grapefruit is one healthy food. I wouldn't recommend the fad grapefruit diet, but incorporating grapefruit as part of your fruit intake is a wise, and flavorful decision.

 

    My favorite grapefruit (forgive me, Arizona), is the Texas Rio Star, which is the most red-fleshed variety available. It is so red, even the normally white pith is tinged pink. Juicy and sweet, this grapefruit beauty perks up all kinds of dishes, from sauces, to vinaigrettes, to desserts. Here is a recipe for a vinaigrette, using the potent zest and freshly squeezed juice of the versatile grapefruit.

 

    I love to toss this vinaigrette with baby greens and top it with grilled shrimp. (You could marinate the shrimp in the vinaigrette for 15 minutes before grilling). Garnish the salad with grapefruit sections and a ripe, sliced avocado. A little goat cheese wouldn't hurt, either.

 

Grapefruit Champagne Vinaigrette

Makes 3/4 cup

  • 1/4 cup champagne vinegar

  • Zest of 1 grapefruit and 2 tablespoons of juice*

  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

  • 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

  1. Place the vinegar through white pepper in a blender and blend until smooth.  

  2. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil until smooth. Set aside.

* First zest grapefruit, then peel and section. Save the sections to garnish the salad, and squeeze the juice needed from the pulp after removing the sections.

(return to top)

 

 

Homemade Dippers

 

    It is easy to make your own dippers and chips for your holiday spreads. For this month's Pumpkin Cranberry spread, using a cookie cutter, I simply cut out star-shaped pieces of multigrain bread, lightly brushed them with olive oil, and baked them in a 350 degree oven until crisp, about 10 minutes. Cookie cutters in all shapes and sizes make adorable cut outs. You can make your own chips, too, using tortillas (flour or corn) or pita or flat breads.

 

    For a sweet holiday treat, I cut out rounds of softened flour tortillas, brush them with melted butter, and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar. Again, just bake in a 350 degree oven until crisp, about 10 minutes. I serve the cinnamon tortilla chips with a seasonally inspired grapefruit and cranberry salsa. 

 

Chef Gwen's Holiday Salsa with Cinnamon Sugar Tostadas

  • 3 navel oranges

  • 1 pink grapefruit

  • 1/2 cup dried cranberries

  • 1/2 red bell pepper, finely chopped

  • 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion

  • 1 jalapeno, finely chopped

  • 2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro

  • 2 tablespoons chopped mint

  • 1/2 lime, juice only

  • Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper

Cinnamon-Sugar Tostadas

Makes 40 chips

  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 tablespoon cinnamon
  • 10 (8-inch) fresh flour tortillas
  • 4 tablespoons melted butter

 

(NOTE:  You can make the chips a few days ahead, just store at room temperature in an air-tight container.)

  1. Cut peel and white pith from oranges and grapefruit.  Cut into sections and then cut sections into small chunks.
  2. Place fruit chunks in a large bowl with the remaining ingredients (cranberries through lime juice). Season with salt and pepper to taste. 
  3. Rest 1/2 hour before serving with Cinnamon-Sugar Tostadas or blue corn chips.

 

 

  1. Heat oven to 375º F. Mix sugar and cinnamon together in a small bowl.
  2. Warm 3 stacked tortillas (wrapped in plastic wrap) in the microwave for 15 seconds.
  3. Remove and quickly cut 4 sets of rounds with a 2 1/2-inch cookie cutter.  Brush each round with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar mixture.
  4. Place on ungreased baking sheet and bake until edges begin to brown, about 6-8 minutes.

 

(return to top)

 

 

 

Roasting Peppers

 

©Santa Fe School of Cooking GrillWhen you're in a hurry, buying a jar of roasted red peppers is quick and easy. The taste isn't as exquisite as roasting your own, and what about when you'd like a roasted poblano or jalapeño?  There are times when roasting peppers and chiles at home makes sense -- when you want the freshest flavor because the pepper is a starring ingredient.

 

The best way, I think, to roast peppers is directly over fire, either from the outdoor grill, or on my gas stovetop. You can broil peppers to get the charred skin, too. I have a cool pepper roasting grate from The Santa Fe School Of Cooking. It sits atop my gas burner and has room to grill 3 or 4 bell peppers at a time. 

 

Wash your pepper and poke a small slit anywhere on the pepper with the tip of a knife to prevent it from puffing up and bursting. Place the pepper on the grate and turn the heat to medium-high. Using tongs, turn the pepper after 2 or 3 minutes, or when the side facing the fire is blackened all over. The more blackening of the skin, the easier it will be to peel, but if you cook it too long, the flesh will burn, making it mushy.  

 

As soon as the pepper is black all over, remove it to a bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Allow the pepper to steam until cool enough to handle. My friend Phillip from New Mexico says if you're going to freeze the peppers, pop them into a Ziploc freezer bag after they've cooled but before you remove the stem and skins. "You won't believe how easy the skins slip off after they thaw," he says.

 

To peel and chop them after they've steamed, cut the stem end off, and then split the pepper in half, lengthwise and remove the seeds. Turn the pepper so the blackened skin is facing up, and using a paring knife, scrape off the black skin and discard. Don't rinse the peppers, as tempting as it might be, or you'll wash all the lovely roasted flavor down the drain.

 

If you are roasting chile peppers, I recommend wearing kitchen gloves. Even the relatively mild poblano has enough capsaicin (the compound responsible for the chile's heat ) to penetrate your fingers and cause them to burn.

 

(return to top)

 

Best Fruits for Grilling

 

In general, firm fruits without high moisture content are best for grilling. Only two things are really important when you head to the grilled armed with fruit. One, make sure your grill is clean. Can you imagine the taste of grilled bananas with a hint of grilled salmon?  Me neither, so be sure to clean the grill completely to remove any trace of previously grilled foods.

 

The second important part of grilling fruit is really two things: cooking the fruit over medium heat (not high), and oiling the grates or the fruit to prevent it from sticking. Be sure to use neutral flavored vegetable oil or non-stick spray. Most fruits will take only a few minutes to grill. Pineapples will take the most time, and strawberries the least amount of time.

Here are some of my favorite fruits for grilling:

 


Grilled Pineapple
 with Pork Tenderloin

Fruit: Prepare: Flavor Pairings:
Pineapple Peel, slice into rings Brown Sugar, Ginger, Saffron
Bananas Peel, cut in half lengthwise Rum, Brown Sugar, Chocolate Sauce
Pears Cut in half lengthwise, core Hazelnuts, Honey, Star Anise
Apples Core, cut into rings crosswise Cinnamon, Brown Sugar
Peaches Cut in half lengthwise, remove pit Honey, Cinnamon, Sage
Plums Cut in half lengthwise, remove pit Honey, Ginger, Cinnamon
Strawberries Thread on flameproof skewers Powdered Sugar, Balsamic Syrup, Chocolate Sauce

 

The only fruits I've not had success with that I've tried are cantelope and watermelon, although I've yet to grill blueberries.

 

(return to top)

 

Zucchini A-Plenty

 

    Got more zucchini than you know what to do with?  Are your neighbors turning off their lights when they see you head toward their door with another basketful?  Not to worry.  Here are a few ideas to help you eat up all that zucchini.

  1. Sun Dried Tomato and Blue Cheese Stuffed Zucchini Rounds. This recipe, from The Great Ranch Cookbook is an impressive appetizer or tasty side dish.

  2. If you don't like sun dried tomatoes and/or blue cheese, create a different stuffing to fill the zucchini rounds. Sauté some mushrooms with garlic and shallots, and mix in some Parmesan cheese, and maybe some fresh herbs.

  3. If you have The Cool Mountain Cookbook, try the gourmet Zucchini Tarts stuffed with Spaghetti Squash and Mascarpone, or the Italian Scrambled Eggs with Gorgonzola.

  4. Slice a zucchini really thin, and layer on your next sandwich. Raw zucchini adds a nice crunch and is a good source of Vitamin C, dietary fiber and Iron.

  5. If you have Par Fork! The Golf Resort Cookbook, make the Zucchini Muffins or the French country side dish, Ratatouille.

  6. Like fried food? Who doesn't?  Slice zucchini 1/4-inch thick, dip in a beaten egg, then dip in flour and fry in 350 degree vegetable oil, just enough to come half way up the side of the zucchini slice. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes on one side, then turn and fry on the other side until golden brown. Remove from oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve hot with a side of ranch dressing for dipping.

  7. Sticking with fried, grate 2 zucchini, toss with salt, pepper, 2 tablespoons flour, and an egg. Drop 1/4-cupfuls into hot oil for zucchini pancakes. Flip with a spatula to brown on both sides. Serve with a tiny dollop of sour cream.

  8. The July 2005 Pen & Fork Newsletter hides 2 zucchini in a yummy chocolate quick bread, a recipe from one of the top pastry chefs in the country, Letty Flatt of Deer Valley Resort.

  9. Even if your neighbors are up to their eyeballs in zucchini, you can still give zucchini to others. How about your hair stylist, or postman, or the guy that does your yard? Look at your schedule and see who could be your next victim, er, recipient.

  10. Still need ideas?  Don't plant as much next year.

(return to top)

Cilantro - A Love/Hate Relationship

Cilantro, also known as Chinese Parsley (and dried form Coriander), is one of those herbs people either love or hate. It has a very pungent smell and flavor. If cut too much, like minced, it tastes bitter, which is perhaps why some people don't like it. 

 

Cilantro should only be roughly chopped at the most, or the leaves pinched off and left whole.  When I was in culinary school, we had a pasta dish in our student-run restaurant with a cilantro pesto sauce.  It returned to the kitchen uneaten more often than burnt steaks (actually, we didn't burn any steaks, or at least we didn't send them out to the dining room if we did.) I love cilantro but I wasn't crazy about this pasta dish. I think cilantro should be in a supporting role, not the star.

 

The great thing about cilantro is that it's cheap (usually $.50 a bunch), and you can use the stems as well as the leaves. It is the only herb that I can think of that has tender stems that taste just like the leaves. I wrap cilantro in damp paper towels and keep in the vegetable crisper drawer for up to a week. I only wash it just before I plan to use it. Dunk the cilantro in a bowl of cold water a few times, and then spin dry (or at least gently pat dry, before using.

 

(return to top)